Mashhad
Mashhad
Mashad, Meshhed, Meshed, Sanabad | |
|---|---|
City | |
 Seal | |
| Motto(s): Mashhad: Smart City, City of Hope and Life | |
 Map of Mashhad | |
  Mashhad Location in Iran | |
| Coordinates: 36°19′35″N 59°32′36″E / 36.32639°N 59.54333°E[1][2] | |
| Country |  Iran |
| Province | Razavi Khorasan |
| County | Mashhad |
| District | Central |
| Mashhad-Sanabad-Tus | 818 AD |
| Government | |
| • Mayor | Mohammad Reza Ghalandar Sharif[3] |
| • Chairperson of City Council | Hassan Movahedian |
| Area | |
• City | 351 km2 (136 sq mi) |
| Elevation | 995 m (3,264 ft) |
| Population (2016) | |
• City | 3,001,184[5] |
| • Rank | 2nd in Iran |
| • Density | 6,500/km2 (17,000/sq mi) |
| • Urban | 3,317,381[7] |
| • Metro | 4,543,000 </ref> |
| Over 2.5 million pilgrims and tourists per year[9] | |
| Demonym(s) | Mashhadi, Mashadi, Mashdi (informal) |
| GDP (Nominal, 2024) | |
| • City | US$24.9 billion |
| • Per capita | US$7,300 |
| Time zone | UTC+03:30 (IRST) |
| Climate | BSk |
| Largest district by area | District 9 (64 km2, land area) |
| Largest district by population | District 2 (480,000) |
| Website | www.mashhad.ir |
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Mashhad (Persian: مشهد [mæʃˈhæd] ⓘ), historically also known as Mashad (/məˈʃæd/ mə-SHAD),[11][12][13][14][15] Meshhed, or Meshed,[16] is the second-largest city in Iran, located in the north-east of the country[17] about 740 kilometres (460 miles) east of Tehran.[18] In the Central District of Mashhad County, it serves as the capital of Razavi Khorasan province, the county, and the district.[19] It has a population of about 3,400,000 (2016 census), which includes the areas of Mashhad, Taman, and Torqabeh.[20]
The city is best known as the home of the Imam Reza Shrine, where the eighth Shia Imam, Ali al-Rida, is buried. It is the most pilgrimaged site in Islam visited by nearly 30 million pilgrims annually,[21][22][23][24] one of the holiest sites in Shia Islam, and the world's largest mosque after Masjid al-Haram in Mecca and the Prophet's Mosque in Medina. Originally a small village, Mashhad was known as Sanabad before the martyrdom of Imam Reza. Located alongside Tus on the ancient Silk Road linking the region with Merv to the east, it grew substantially after the Imam's martyrdom, as people settled around his burial place and built homes in its vicinity.[25][26] Overtime, the village came to be known as Mashhad, meaning "place of martyrdom." It soon emerged as one of the most important pilgrimage centers on earth.[27][28] The economy of Mashhad has become reliant on pilgrimage, and the city has remained deeply conservative.[29][30]
Mashhad is also associated with Ferdowsi, the Persian poet and author of the Shahnameh, who was born in Tus, with many institutions in Mashhad named after him. The city enjoyed relative prosperity in the Mongol period, and continued to grow. Between 1736 and 1796, Mashhad became the capital of Iran which was ruled by the Afsharid dynasty founded by Nader Shah, whose tomb is located in the city. In the modern era, Mashhad continued to expand and became the hometown of some of the most significant literary figures and artists of modern Iran, such as the poet Mehdi Akhavan-Sales, and the traditional Iranian singer and composer Mohammad-Reza Shajarian. On 30 October 2009 (the anniversary of Imam Reza's martyrdom), Mashhad was declared the "Spiritual Capital of Iran."[31][32] The city has also been named the Cultural Capital of the Islamic World by the Organisation of Islamic Cooperation.[33][34][35][36][37]
History
[edit source]Religious significance
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Mashhad is the holiest city in Iran, one of the holiest sites in Shia Islam, and one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the world. The Imam Reza Shrine receives nearly 30 million pilgrims annually and is the most visited site in Islam. Its religious significance stems from being the burial place of Imam Reza, the eighth Imam in Shia Islam. After his death in 818 CE (203 AH), he was buried in the village of Sanabad near Tus, and the site gradually became known as Mashhad, meaning "the place of the martyrdom." Over the centuries, the settlement grew into a major religious city centered around his shrine. Numerous traditions attribute immense spiritual merit to the pilgrimage (ziyārah) of Imam Reza, and millions of pilgrims travel to Mashhad every year.
Mashhad is also one of the leading centers of Shia religious scholarship. The city is home to numerous seminaries (hawzas), libraries, museums, and institutions dedicated to Islamic learning and theology. Throughout history, rulers from the Timurid, Safavid, Afsharid, and Qajar dynasties invested heavily in the shrine and the surrounding city, recognizing its religious and cultural importance.[38] Today, the shrine forms the heart of Mashhad, attracting tens of millions of visitors annually and making the city one of the largest pilgrimage destinations in the world. The city remains a symbol of Shia Islamic identity and Islamic scholarship.
Since the presence of Imam Reza in the eastern Islamic region had a significant impact in favor of the Alids and against the Abbasids, it also contributed to the spread of Shia teachings in the region. After his death, the propagation of his teachings was entrusted to his narrators and students, and his burial site gradually became a spiritual center for Shias and, shortly afterward, for Sunnis as well.[39][40][41][42] Visitors ranging from common people to many Shia and Sunni kings made pilgrimages to the shrine throughout history.[43][44][45][46] Several hadiths from the Shia Imams and Muhammad highlight the importance of pilgrimage to the shrine. A hadith from Muhammad says:[47][48][49][50][51]
One of my own flesh and blood will be buried in the land of Khorasan. God the Highest will surely remove the sorrows of any sorrowful person who goes on pilgrimage to his shrine. God will surely forgive the sins of any sinful person who goes on pilgrimage to his shrine.
Etymology and early history
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Ancient Greek sources mention the passage and residence of Alexander the Great in this land, which was called "Susia" (Ancient Greek: Σούσια), in 330 BC.[52][53][54][55] The map of Tabula Peutingeriana, which dates back to the early Roman era, names this city on the west of Merv, Alexandria, instead of Susia.[56] Pliny the Elder, says there is a city in the middle of Parthia, near Arsace and Nisiaea, called "Alexandropolis" after its founder.[57] Many Muslim historians, from the 10th to the 16th century AD, attribute the founding of "Sanabad" (the old name of the city) to Alexander.[58][59]
Also in the Shia hadith sources, which the narrators connect to the 7th to 9th centuries AD, there are quotations that Imam Ridha and Harun al-Rashid are buried in a city founded by Dhu al-Qarnayn. [60][61][62][63][64]
The older name of Mashhad is Sanabad (سناباد Sanâbâd). It was eventually renamed to Mashhad during the Safavid Empire. The name Mashhad comes from Arabic, meaning a Mazar (mausoleum).[65][66] It is also known as the place where Ali ar-Ridha (Persian, Imam Reza), the eighth Imam of Shia Muslims, died (according to the Shias, was martyred). Reza's shrine was placed there.[67]
The ancient Parthian city of Patigrabanâ, mentioned in the Behistun inscription (520 BC) of the Achaemenid Emperor Darius the Great, may have been located at the Mashhad.[68]
At the beginning of the 9th century (3rd century AH), Mashhad was a small city called Sanabad, which was situated 24 kilometres (15 miles) away from Tus. There was a summer palace of Humayd ibn Qahtaba, the governor of Khurasan. In 808, when Harun al-Rashid, Abbasid caliph, was passing through to quell the insurrection of Rafi ibn al-Layth in Transoxania, he became ill and died. He was buried under the palace of Humayd ibn Qahtaba. Thus the Dar al-Imarah was known as the Mausoleum of Haruniyyeh. In 818, Ali al-Ridha was martyred by al-Ma'mun and was buried beside the grave of Harun.[69] Although Mashhad owns the cultural heritage of Tus (including its figures like Nizam al-Mulk, Al-Ghazali, Ahmad Ghazali, Ferdowsi, Asadi Tusi, and Shaykh Tusi), earlier Arab geographers have correctly identified Mashhad and Tus as two separate cities that are now located about 19 kilometres (12 miles) from each other.[70]
Mongolian invasion: Ilkhanids
[edit source]Although some believe that after this event, the city was called Mashhad al-Ridha (the place of martyrdom of al-Ridha), it seems that Mashhad, as a place-name, first appears in al-Maqdisi, i.e., in the last third of the 10th century. About the middle of the 14th century, the traveller Ibn Battuta uses the expression "town of Mashhad al-Rida". Towards the end of the Middle Ages, the name Nuqan, which is still found on coins in the first half of the 14th century under the Il-Khanids, seems to have been gradually replaced by al-Mashhad or Mashhad.[71]
Shias began to make pilgrimages to his grave. By the end of the 9th century, a dome was built above the grave, and many other buildings and bazaars sprang up around it. Over the course of more than a millennium, it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times.[72] In 1161, however, the Seljuks seized the city, but they spared the sacred area their pillaging. Mashad al-Ridha was not considered a "great" city until Mongol raids in 1220, which caused the destruction of many large cities in Khurasan but leaving Mashhad relatively intact in the hands of Mongolian commanders because of the cemetery of Ali Al-Rezza and Harun al-Rashid (the latter was stolen).[73] Thus the survivors of the massacres migrated to Mashhad.[74] When the Arab traveller Ibn Battuta visited the town in 1333, he reported that it was a large town with abundant fruit trees, streams and mills. A great dome of elegant construction surmounts the noble mausoleum, the walls being decorated with colored tiles.[9] The most well-known dish cooked in Mashhad, "sholeh Mashhadi" (شله مشهدی) or "Sholeh", dates back to the era of the Mongolian invasion when it is thought to be cooked with any food available (the main ingredients are meat, grains and abundant spices) and be a Mongolian word.[75][76]
Timurid Empire
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It seems that the importance of Sanabad-Mashhad continually increased with the growing fame of its sanctuary and the decline of Tus, which received its death-blow in 1389 from Miran Shah, a son of Timur. When the Kartid noble who governed the place rebelled and attempted to make himself independent, Miran Shah was sent against him by his father. Tus was stormed after a siege of several months, sacked and left a heap of ruins; 10,000 inhabitants were massacred. Those who escaped the holocaust settled in the shelter of the 'Alid sanctuary. Tus was henceforth abandoned and Mashhad took its place as the capital of the district.[citation needed]
Later on, during the reign of the Timurid Shahrukh Mirza, Mashhad became one of the main cities of the realm. In 1418, his wife Goharshad funded the construction of an outstanding mosque beside the shrine, which is known as the Goharshad Mosque.[74] The mosque remains relatively intact to this date, its great size an indicator to the status the city held in the 15th century.
Safavid Empire
[edit source]Ismail I, founder of the Safavid Empire, conquered Mashhad after the death of Husayn Bayqarah and the decline of the Timurid dynasty. He was later captured by the Uzbeks during the reign of Shah Abbas I. In the 16th century the town suffered considerably from the repeated raids of the Özbegs (Uzbeks). In 1507, it was taken by the troops of the Shaybani or Shabani Khan. After two decades, Shah Tahmasp I succeeded in repelling the enemy from the town again in 1528. But in 1544, the Özbegs again succeeded in entering the town and plundering and murdering there. The year 1589 was a disastrous one for Mashhad. The Shaybanid 'Abd al-Mu'min after a four months' siege forced the town to surrender. Shah Abbas I, who lived in Mashhad from 1585 until his official ascent of the throne in Qazwin in 1587, was not able to retake Mashhad from the Özbegs until 1598. Mashhad was retaken by the Shah Abbas after a long and hard struggle, defeating the Uzbeks in a great battle near Herat as well as managing to drive them beyond the Oxus River. Abbas the Great wanted to encourage Iranians to go to Mashhad for pilgrimage. He is said to have walked from Isfahan to Mashhad. During the Safavid era, Mashhad gained even more religious recognition, becoming the most important city of Greater Khorasan, as several madrasah and other structures were built beside the Imam Reza shrine. Besides its religious significance, Mashhad has played an important political role as well. The Safavid dynasty has been criticized in a book (Red Shi'sm vs. Black Shi'ism) on the perceived dual aspects of the Shi'a religion throughout history) as a period in which although the dynasty didn't form the idea of Black Shi'ism, but this idea was formed after the defeat of Shah Ismail against the Ottoman leader Sultan Yavuz Selim. Black Shi'ism is a product of the post-Safavid period.
Qajar Empire
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Some believe that Mashhad was ruled by Shahrukh Afshar and remained the capital of the Afsharid dynasty during Zand dynasty[77] until Agha Mohammad Khan Qajar conquered the then larger region of Khorasan in 1796.[78]
1912 Imam Reza shrine bombardment
[edit source]In 1911 Yusuf Khan of Herat was declared independent in Mashhad as Muhammad Ali Shah and brought together a large group of reactionaries opposed to the revolution, and keep stirring for some time. This gave Russia the excuse to intervene and 29 March 1912 bombed the city; this bombing killed several people and pilgrims; action against a Muslim shrine caused a great shock to all Islamic countries. On 29 March 1912, the sanctuary of Imam Reza was bombed by the Russian artillery fire, causing some damage, including to the golden dome, resulting in a widespread and persisting resentment in the Shiite Muslim world as well as British India. This bombing was orchestrated by Prince Aristid Mikhailovich Dabizha (a Moldovan who was the Russian Consul in Mashhad) and General Radko (a Bulgarian who was commander of the Russian Cossacks in the city).[79] Yusuf Khan ended up captured by the Persians and was executed.
Pahlavi dynasty
[edit source]Modernization under Reza Shah
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The modern development of the city accelerated under Reza Shah (1925-1941). Shah Reza Hospital (currently Imam Reza Hospital, affiliated with the Basij organization) was founded in 1934; the sugar factory of Abkuh in 1935; and the Mashhad University of Medical Sciences in 1939. The city's first power station was installed in 1936, and in 1939, the first urban transport service began with two buses. In this year the first population census was performed, with a result of 76,471 inhabitants.[80]
1935 Goharshad Mosque rebellion
[edit source]In 1935, a backlash against the modernizing, anti-religious policies of Reza Pahlavi erupted in the Mashhad shrine. Responding to a cleric who denounced the Shah's heretical innovations, corruption, and heavy consumer taxes, many bazaars and villagers took refuge in the shrine, chanted slogans such as "The Shah is a new Yazid." For four days local police and army refused to violate the shrine and the standoff was ended when troops from Azerbaijan arrived and broke into the shrine,[81] killing dozens and injuring hundreds, and marking a final rupture between Shi'ite clergy and the Shah.[82] According to some Mashhadi historians, the Goharshad Mosque uprising, which took place in 1935, is an uprising against Reza Shah's decree banning all veils (headscarf and chador) on 8 January 1936.[83]
1941–1979 reforms
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Mashhad experienced population growth after the Anglo-Soviet invasion of Iran in 1941 because of relative insecurity in rural areas, the 1948 drought, and the establishment of Mashhad University in 1949. At the same time, public transport vehicles increased to 77 buses and 200 taxis and the railway link with the capital, Tehran, was established in 1957. The 1956 census reflected a population of 241,989 people. The increase in population continued in the following years thanks to the increase in Iranian oil revenues, the decline of the feudal social model, the agrarian reform of 1963, the founding of the city's airport, the creation of new factories and the development of the health system. In 1966, the population reached 409,616 inhabitants, and 667,770 in 1976. The extension of the city was expanded from 16 to 33 square kilometres (170,000,000 to 360,000,000 square feet).
During World War II, Polish refugee children were admitted in Mashhad in March 1942 (see also Iran–Poland relations).[84] After receiving food and medical care at a local hospital, the children were further evacuated to India.[84]
In 1965 an important urban renewal development project for the surroundings of the shrine of Imam Reza was proposed by the Iranian architect and urban designer Dariush Borbor to replace the dilapidated slum conditions which surrounded the historic monuments. The project was officially approved in 1968. In 1977 the surrounding areas were demolished to make way for the implementation of this project. To relocate the demolished businesses, a new bazaar was designed and constructed in Meydan-e Ab square (in Persian, "میدان آب")[80] by Dariush Borbor. After the revolution, the urban renewal project was abandoned.
1994 Imam Reza shrine bombing
[edit source]On 20 June 1994, a bomb exploded in a prayer hall of the shrine of the Imam Reza.[85] The bomb that killed at least 25 people on 20 June in Mashhad exploded on Ashura.[86] The Pakistani terrorist Ramzi Yousef, a Sunni Muslim turned Wahhabi, one of the main perpetrators of the 1993 World Trade Center bombing, was found to be behind the plot.[87]
2026 Iran massacres
[edit source]On 22 January 2026, during the 2026 Iran massacres, 33-year-old Ali Rahbar was reportedly executed in Mashhad, becoming one of the first protesters to be executed.[88] Iran's judiciary denied his execution having taken place, stating that such a person had not even been detained.[89]
Geography
[edit source]The city is located at 36.20º North latitude and 59.35º East longitude, in the valley of the Kashafrud River near Turkmenistan, between the two mountain ranges of Binalood and Hezar Masjed Mountains. The city benefits from the proximity of the mountains, having cool winters, pleasant springs, and mild summers.[citation needed] It is only about