Further Tales of the City
I'm not quite sure how this all started but I'm kind of obsessed with prisons and prison sex. (Also public school boys and fagging, but that's a different story.) A framed poster of Andy Warhol's film Prison takes pride of place above the TV in my sitting room, then there's my in-depth knowledge of Prisoner Cell Block H and Bad Girls ... basically, all this means that a trip to Alcatraz was essential.
After a short boat trip across from the mainland, you arrive in a courtyard where the original bad lads of olden days would have been delivered to do their stretch. You walk up a steep incline and then go inside the prison and can visit the cells, the visiting area and also get a look into the control room.
There were no dormitories, each prisoner was allocated their own tiny cell containing a bed, a shelf, a toilet and a small sink. The communals areas were the dining hall and the recreation area out at the back. The rules of the prison stated, "You are entitled to food, clothing, shelter and medical care. Anything else you get is a privilege." The recreation area was the most popular privilege request. There was a library but prisoners weren't allowed to visit it, they could request books and they would then be delivered to their cell. There was no washing area so people must have got a bit whiffy.
When you visit the prison you get a head set that you wear walking around and you get to listen to stories about some of the inmates and some of the escapes that were attempted. There's also sound bites of the big heavy gates clanging shut and footsteps walking up and down the corridors. It would be nice to get the chance to go there alone, or just in a small group because, of course, other pesky people are there too and insist on wittering and taking photos of everything so you're unable to lose yourself and be fully immersed in the experience.
I stood in a cell for a few minutes but was more impressed with the control room and the nice smart uniform that the prison officers used to wear. On the way out I bought a badge that qualifies me as an Alcatraz Correctional Officer. It's official, so don't mess with me, right?
Making Ladies
After the seriousness and squalor of Alcatraz, it seemed logical to end the day with a camp laugh. I came across Veronica Klaus while stalking Trannyshackers on My Space, she is a jazz singer and performance artist who bases her show, Family Jewels, around stories from her childhood as a "big boned girly-boy" and her sex change.
The delivery is a little bit "jazz hands", her stories are personal and honest, but she performs them in character which loses a little of their poignancy, but she's also witty, confident and self-effacing. She makes a good point in refusing to tell us her male name, "because you'll whisper it whenever you see me and you might be tempted to think that was the real me." Then she talks about her journey of self discovery and how she set about contructing herself.
She is certainly a striking vision - tall and statuesque with beautiful copper hair and large breasts. I loved the line about her hair colour - "it's not natural but it is REAL." I think I lot of her look was inspired by Bette Midler who she cites as a major influence and talks of the many lonely teenage hours she would spend listening to Bette's music.
Veronica's biggest talent is as a singer, she has a rich, powerful voice that lends itself perfectly to the jazz standards and cabaret tunes she performs. She even made the Carpenters song she sang sound sexy. You can listen to some clips on her MySpace.
Wednesday was a day for quiet contemplation - cable car rides, hanging out on the outskirts of the city and going to see the sea lions at Fisherman's Wharf. I was slightly worried that there seemed to be less of them than last time, I'd hate to think of them dying out. Mind you, all they seem to do is just lie there all day going "arf", they don't get much privacy for mating and they don't really look like they could be arsed. Still, I gazed at them adoringly for half an hour or so, getting excited if one fell off the raft into the water and had to irritatedly clamber back up again. I also bought a toy one to keep as a pet.
In the evening I decided upon a trip to the theatre. Hedda Gabler was playing opposite the hotel and, in keeping with my other theatrical outings, the poster looked good so I decided to go. The play is about a woman who feels trapped by her life and the limitations if offers her. She is bored and uninspired by the people who surround her and has married a rich man in the hope that his money will buy her some happiness. Six months into the marriage she is frustrated by the lack of attention that he pays her and, when a business deal looks to be in jeopardy, she finds she may not have married a rich man after all.
I know in my heart that if I could have a job at Best in Show and rent a nice flat upstairs, I could live out my days in contentment. I would make occasional trips to the wharf to see the sea, and on Tuesdays I would go to 9th St for Trannyshack, but mostly I would stay cocooned between 14th and Castro in my nice little rainbow flagged world and I would rarely want for a thing.
Drumroll please, it is now time to recount my pilgrimage to TRANNYSHACK!! I had been warned that the place was small, but it was even teenier than I imagined. The stage is about the size of postage stamp and yet so much talent and inspirational performance has taken place in this seemingly innocuous back street venue. For their 11th anniversary show it was no holds barred and they were showcasing the best acts of the last year, I couldn’t have picked a better week to visit.
Just after midnight Heklina appeared to perform Stevie Nicks, a vision in ice-white hair and a beautiful glittery shawl - “You can’t do Stevie without a shawl”. She was flanked by two adorable backing dancers and one of them almost made me lactate - a beautiful, sweet, doe-eyed boy called Little John who was covered in glitter and wearing a unicorn horn. He was so heartbreakingly perfect I could have sworn, at that moment, that he was an angel plucked down from the sky and lent to the mere mortals for the evening. Such radiance is rarely witnessed, and here are some of my other favourite bits …
As usual my heart burst for Kiddie. I don’t quite know why but I ADORE this queen. She is bald, beautiful, frustratingly enigmatic and a bitch to take a decent on-stage picture of, but every new image I find brings on tingles of excitement and watching her perform I am in heaven. She did a murder piece accompanied by another Trannyshack regular, Mama Swamp. There were several wig changes, some comedy glasses and a gun, but I was a little too giddy to remember it clearly.
Judi’s character is Barbara, a school teacher who hates her pupils - “the future generation of shop assistants and plumbers” – hates her fellow teachers and isn’t all that keen on anyone else, come to think of it. When the waspish Sheba (Cate Blanchett) appears, Barbara initially dismisses her as fey, but when they speak for the first time she comes over all soppy and her thoughts turn to sins of the flesh.
I think I kind of expected the puppet show to act out parts of his work, but instead they took his inspiration to produce characters of their own to present their hour-long snatch of life set in a back street bar.
My favourite clip was a series of little blue men performing a spy story loosely based on Bukowski’s novel Pulp, his only non-autobiographical work. About 30 different small puppets where banged up onto the table to deliver a fast moving dialogue with a new character introduced about every 2 seconds. A masterpiece of timing and wit.
Yesterday I was back at the Old Vic for the Propeller production of Twelfth Night – a tale of sibling bereavement and men wooing women.
Shakespeare believed that gender could be performed and in Propeller's Twelfth Night, more so than in Shrew, this became a proven fact. In Shrew the female characters are slightly caricatured - Katherine is brattish and Bianca is geeky - but in Twelfth Night, Olivia and her maid, Maria, are played “straight” and it’s not just about the putting on of female costumes. There are subtle mannerisms and movements that all help to create the feminine illusion, and while neither of the actors wore wigs and had typically male physiques, the fact that they were presented as women could not be questioned. In fact, Dugald Bruce-Lockhart’s Olivia reminded me very much of Dorothy from the Golden Girls.